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Looking over the past few posts, i seem to be on a real kick of 'crazycraft' interspersed with 'computers and costuming'! After all those symposium creature posts, here's another computer-related one. Remember that i spent part of my summer taking a CAD class at?

I discussed a bit about some of the topics covered in like Adobe Illustrator and CorelDRAW. In this post, I have a few screencaps of some of the other programs that we used in the class, including the pattern- and marker-making software produced by, which i'd like to share and discuss! Gerber Garment Technology makes a whole suite of software for pattern drafting, marker making, and cutting. ('Marker making' is not really a commonly-used term in the costume industry IME, but in fashion it means pattern layout for fabric conservation.)In the course, we worked with both types of software to develop a pattern for one of our technical flats. I chose a women's work-shirt design with inset panels featuring some strategic gathers to accommodate a range of bust sizes. Workshirt pattern in Gerber Pattern Design program You can see all my pattern pieces arranged on the 'table' here, but when using the software i could zoom in and focus on any of them to adjust fullness, manipulate darts, alter curves or line lengths, add or remove seam allowances, everything you would do by hand with a pencil and paper. The software allows you to check seam length accuracy to within 0.003'!

Across the top you can see my pattern pieces created from a sloper, and down the side are clickable tool buttons that allow you to do all the manipulation. This software does not teach you how to generate or alter patterns--you have to have the pattern drafting knowledge already, and a lot of my fellow students (who were undergrads, not people with my two decades of construction experience) relied heavily upon flat-pattern reference textbooks to do their assignments. What it really does is speed up the process--instead of slashing and spreading a paper pattern, adding in fullness manually, redrafting curves by hand, etc., the program does it for you with a few mouse-clicks.

And let me tell you, the ease at which i added varying amounts of seam allowance and hem depths to my pieces? I nearly wept. And don't even get me started on how quick it was to grade up or down sizes. Once you've got your pattern ready to cut, you send it to the Marker Making software, which looks like this: The pieces at the bottom there show my pattern layout on 44' wide fabric. The table can cut up to 60' fabrics, but i made my marker for some narrow stuff i had already, of the desired weight. You can see how easy it would be to move those pieces around on there to find the most advantageous cutting layout in terms of fabric conservation. The two (barely visible) pieces up in the middle area weren't part of this marker--i wanted them cut out of a contrast fabric.

After you get your marker layout set up, you send it to the cutter and order a garment to be cut out (or, a bunch of them, whatever you need). Gerber Garment Technology robotic cutting table This thing is like a reverse air-hockey table: small holes in the table surface pull a vacuum and suck the fabric smooth to the table while the blades cut the pattern. The blade holder has a rotary blade as well as a drill, and this thing cuts a pattern in seconds. The whole table surface is basically like those self-healing rotary cutting mats you can get at Jo-Ann's, so the blades don't dull quickly and the cuts are sharp.

My entire shirt was cut out in literally maybe 30 seconds, if that, notches and dart markings and everything. Workshirt sample on a dress form And there it is, my entirely-computer-patterned-and-cut shirt! If i were producing this shirt for real, i'd go back and tweak the pattern a bit, add some features for a better fit, but in general, i'm pleased with how it turned out, and the entire process (once you figured out how to operate the programs) was SUPER fast, much faster than drafting by hand, and definitely much faster than manual addition of seam allowances, marker layout, and cutting. Gerber Technology's software is far outside the budget capabilities of most theatre shops (my professor estimated that the software suite was around $12,000, not counting the cost of the robotic cutting table, or a plotter to print out the patterns for manual cutting). However, i know that the 'big guys' like Disney already have CAD labs in some of their production facilities, and i suspect that this technology is coming our way, particularly once the current reigning generation of Broadway shops retire--whomever takes over will likely bring this sort of technology to the table. The folks at NCSU have already been talking extensively with costume designer and impresario William Ivey Long about how to incorporate these technologies into production cost reduction on the Broadway and international tour shows he designs. I'm glad i had the opportunity to work with it because i feel certain that some of our graduate students will go into jobs where they will need to train on it someday.

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